Holding pattern

Screw this, I'm making a break for it!

It almost looks like a massive wave on the ocean.

Today was an interesting one and redefined the trip. We knew the chance was slim to continue north today, but we waited it out. Around noon it was clear the road wouldn't open. This forced people to make some decisions. Four of the seven cars decided that it wasn't worth it and headed back south. There was tremendous debate and agonizing on our part. This is where everyone's desires, motives, goals, and personalities came into play. We're all in this for different reasons and we all have different times we're willing to reach Anchorage at. I was willing to wait it out and I personally didn't care about the rest of the trip or meeting back up with Alcan. I was willing to create my own trip from here on out. One of the remaining two cars felt differently, and then the issue of do we separate our group and let someone travel alone came in. In the end, based on the continued updates from the truckers here and the works crews that kept popping in, we decided that a) safety is paramount and we couldn't let someone travel alone, and b) there was the slightest of shots that we could at least make the Arctic Circle tomorrow. So we agreed to stick together and wait here one more night. We're taking a chance and going for broke.

However, we're not exactly suffering here. Quite frankly, we are having a blast. There's a bizarre quaint charm to this place, with its animal pelts, resident dogs, and friendly people. The truckers are amused by us and seem to be impressed by our determination. I think they like anyone that's willing to come all the way up here in the middle of winter. We've had some nice long chats with them and they've been a wealth of information on the region. It's been really nice to just take a break and do nothing for a day. And frankly, some people needed time away from their co-drivers. This gave us time to mix with other people. I had a blast rooming with Steve and Bill last night, our personalities are meshing perfectly and we're becoming fast friends.

Security isn't really an issue here.

Bill does his best impression of Ralphie's brother.

Don't think we just sat and did nothing today, though. I loaded up the gear and went for a walk. It's frigging cold out there! It was about -20 today with a good wind. Tonight should be about -35. I got to try out the snowshoes and really enjoyed how easy they made walking around. The hotel is at the top of a vista overlooking a massive sweeping plain. It looks like the wind has blown so long here it's made a dune of the land. Other than that, just a whole lot of snow blown into massive drifts. The sun didn't rise until 8:30 today, but it also didn't get completely dark here until about 7. The rises and sunsets are spectacular, the angle is so low and there are always interesting colors around it from the light hitting the crystalline snow blowing in the air. There was a plaque in the back of the hotel that said we were at the latitude that marked the Arctic, but everyone says the Circle is 15 miles or so from here. Just in case we don't make it up the road, I took my picture by the plaque. The hotel also has certificates that say you've been to the Arctic Circle, which is kind of funny.

The sign says I'm in the Arctic, and that's the story I'm sticking with!

At one point boredom set in, and Steve introduced us to "Arctic Punch", although we agreed "Antifreeze" would be an equally appropriate name. Apparently if you mix straight ethanol (a small amount!) with some juice or soda, it's totally drinkable. He owns a brewery, so it's the only reason I trusted him. With orange juice, it tasted a little like anisette. With root beer, slightly Kahlua-ish. We're all alive and not blind, so I guess it was ok.

This has given me time to appreciate some of my gear choices. The hat that looked so silly home is absolutely the only thing I'd want to wear here. It was completely warm and the fur did exactly what it was supposed to. My balaclava is necessary now, as the air hurts my face too much to go without it. My oven mittens are toasty warm, as is the puffy Norrona jacket. I was so comfortable, I didn't even notice how cold it was. The Jetboil is coming in very handy for food and coffee purposes, as well as steam heating cinnamon buns. The camera is rock-solid in this cold, and the lens has performed supremely on this bumpy roads and cloudy days. I can even change my shooting settings with my mittens on, that's how well-designed the camera layout is.

Suddenly the real fur made a lot more sense. It's entirely functional in this environment.

There's still debate as to what will happen tomorrow. Dave is in Dawson, having made up an impressive amount of ground. We've heard we may only make it as far as the Circle and have to turn back. The highway crews agreed to let us follow their plows that far, after that is at our own risk. So we find ourselves back in the bar chatting, drinking, and playing games. Bob is talking to Mervin, a local, who is apparently a Red Sox fan. I've found my hidden talent at shuffleboard. I still suck at pool. The food here has been a pleasant surprise. Everyone's in good spirits and life is pretty good right now.

It's a tough life living at the Arctic Circle.